Wednesday, March 28, 2012

What's the use of worry? What's the use of hurry? (random update from a Dancing Nancy)

This weekend I am going to Korca to visit a current COD (Community and Organizational Development Facilitator).  People here call it C-O-D, but I am trying (not so subtly) to call us "cods".  We development workers have a tendency to be rather pretentious with our titles and such.  I think "facipulation" (facilitation + manipulation) is a better term for what we are supposed to actually do here.  But, I really have no idea yet.  This country and experience should be allowed to reveal itself naturally and "avash avash" (slowly). 

For more on Korca - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kor%C3%A7%C3%AB

The video link pasted below is fellow group 15-er Lizzie telling a tale of a lamb in Elbasan.  I do so heart the Balkans. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRXoyTC4xvg 

My AWESOME site mates - Derek, Liila, and Alex

Derek, Liila, me, and Mike

I wish I could remember what we're looking at. 

Monday, March 26, 2012

Photos! (I know that's what you all want anyway)

The pictures are in no particular order.  New more type-B Sara could not be bothered with that.  I am working on a post about settling in, but it will probably be a week or so.  Studying the language is taking up a considerable amount of time.  So is doing things like washing clothes by hand...

Next weekend I will go and stay with a current volunteer in a different part of the country.   Hopefully by the beach or in the mountains.  Did I mention that I love Peace Corps Albania?  :)  
Group 15 in Elbasan having a coffee break (one of several a day).  Don't we blend in well?  :)

My host mom gave me this lace doilie she made by hand.  She is awesome.  More on her to come later.

The cat had kittens on Friday!  Uber cute.

The hen and her chicks are let out several times a day. 

And I don't even like cats.  But I go visit the kitties frequently.

The view from my balcony.  How lucky am I?

Another balcony view.
sunset from my balcony


The street in front of my house.

Neighbors chatting behind the house.

Life in Thane

another view of our street

last kitten picture - for now

Check out the "ladder."  We have left the Land of Liability.

view from the hotel we stayed at briefly in Elbasan

another view from my awesome room

Old town Elbasan

Chickens out to play

my room   :)  :)  :)  Yes, this is the Posh Corps

the pillow on my bed - very appropriate for Albania


doing homework

I love my host house and family!!!  I do homework outside whenever possible.

The room attached to my room.  I may have the best set-up of group 15.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

I Think I'm in Love (and other thoughts from PST Orientation)

I think I'm in love with Peace Corps Albania.  The more people I meet and the more I learn, the more sure I am that coming here was the right decision.  I know this is the "honeymoon phase," but even when that wears off, I feel certain that I'll be left with a deeper relationship with this fantastic, complex, welcoming country.

For the past 3 days, we have been in orientation for pre-service training (PST - get ready for a lot of acronyms).  Tomorrow, we will be placed in small villages with host families outside a mid-sized, centrally-located city.  For 10 weeks, we will intensively study the language as well as develop and hone skills relevant to our sector service.  (For me that is Community and Organizational Development Facilitation, or COD.)  After that, we will be placed in villages, towns, and cities all over the country to do what we do.  We will also have ample time to travel and apartment on our own.  Jackpot.

Below are some random notes and thoughts from PST orientation.
  • Orientation has been a very emotional experience for me.  I have been giddy for days.   Never in my life have I felt like I might burst into tears multiple times a day.  Usually out of feelings of sheer joy and excitement, but also for unsettling feelings I don't quite understand and struggle to describe.  I have become that overly-positive smiley person I feared would be predominate in our group.  (Very un-Sara-like, huh?)  Combine that with jet lag, lots of new people, new foods and culture, intense briefings and language classes, and the knowledge that you have just entered a brand new world.  And left who and what you know and love far, far away.  Yikes.  But so far it is a wild, exciting ride.  This may just be the life for me.
  • Peace Corps Albania staff is absolutely outstanding.  I am super impressed with (but not surprised by) their professionalism, dedication, competence, experience,  openness, etc, etc, etc. 
  • European country assignments are often sarcastically referred to as "Posh Corps."  
  • PCVs (Peace Corps volunteers) are overall practical, positive, honest, and welcoming.  They are also a pretty foul-mouthed group.  
  • No one in the group has come to "save Albania."  People are very mature and have healthy attitudes about development and cultural engagement.  And they are fun, helpful, and interesting people.  I think this group holds some life-long friends.
  • I am the only Sara out of 44 people!  But there are two Emilys, Michaels, Marias, and Allisons. 
  • We had a Peace Corps groupie try to sneak into our group at the airport.  She got on our bus with her luggage, took one of the provided lunch bags, and made herself comfortable.  She had apparently traveled to Albania on her own and decided that she would also like to be a PCV.   From what we were told, this may be the first instance of a PC Poser.  Strange.
  • People are way way too obsessed with the idea of using a "Turkish toilet." 
  • The term "mad as a hatter" came from hat makers rubbing mercury into hats with their bare hands.  The mercury socked into their skin and turned many of them crazy.
  • There is a drug that if taken within 72 hours of exposure will prevent contracting HIV.  
  • "Ha, ha, ha" means "eat, eat, eat" in Albanian. 

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

First Impressions

Albania group 15 is stellar.  Exciting times await.  When I get a photo of the group from someone, I will post it so you can admire them too.

flying over Montenegro

Tirana!
Stella and I took a walk our first morning in Elbasan

Sunday, March 11, 2012

You Can't Go Home Again

Saying Goodbye

Although leaving for the Peace Corps has been mostly stress-free, I have been emotionally taxed in ways I did not expect.  The difficulty is knowing that when you return, for whatever reason or length of time, things will be different.  Some relationships will wither and new ones will emerge.  Babies will be born and people will die.  New friends will delight and old friends will feel distant. Family will evolve.

I have not been as anxious as I anticipated. An unsettling feeling will pass over me like a wave, sometimes strong and sometimes weak.  Today I had the obligatory pre-departure cry unceremoniously at home, quietly.  My friends and family have helped to make up for my lack of emotional display.  I try to respond to them and their concerns with kindness and sincerity, but I feel guilty that I cannot match their level of expression.  And I try not to be awkward about it.  Saying goodbye is like that though, always a bit uncomfortable.  People who love me want to spend time with me, and that is beautiful.  But the strong emotional reactions to my departure and the possessiveness over my remaining time are discomforting. 

I know I will never really "come home again."  But I think that is okay.  Home is where the heart is, and the heart is with the important people.  Home must evolve.

Change is good and change is healthy. 

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Goals

I have been repeatedly advised to set goals for my Peace Corps experience.  This is supposed to keep me focused during those times when I wonder why the *@!# I ever moved to Albania.  In the interest of public accountability, I am posting them here. 

1.  Adapt to Albania - be engaged, learn the language
2.  Make friends
3.  Travel
4.  Learn to meditate
5.  Advance my yoga practice
6.  Be patient, deliberate, optimistic and open-minded
7.  Read
8.  Write
9.  Learn to cook Albanian foods
10.  Take a photo a day

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Timeline of Albanian History


 
Albanian history is not exactly common knowledge. People kept asking me about it, which was a problem considering I didn't really know anything about Albania until recently. Hence the timeline. I thought of trying to write a witty title, but there is no reason. This simply is a timeline of Albanian history, and I am obviously a nerd.
 
The information below was compiled from several sources (read: mostly Wikipedia) encountered in my journey of educating myself on all things Albania. No promises as to accuracy or relevance.  I've added some images and random historical facts for your amusement.

An ancient Albanian guy impressing the ladies?



* 1000(ish) BCE – Albanian references appear in early Greco-Roman records of Illyria.

* 150 CE – Ptolemy's writing and maps mention the city of Albanopolis (northeast of present-day Durrës) and the Illyrian tribes called Albanoi
who lived nearby. 

Battle of Kosovo



*  600’s –Slavic tribes wrestle control of the area  from the Byzantine Empire. 

* 800’s – Invasion and domination by the Bulgarians.

* 1200’s - Local Albanian noble families emerge.  Invasions from Serbia, present-day Italy, and waves of Crusaders.  Occupiers establish the Kingdom of Albania.


* 1389 – Ottoman Empire conquers the Balkans after a decisive victory at the Battle of Kosovo. 

Skanderbeg!


* 1405 - George Kastrioti is born.  He later becomes the Albanian national hero Skanderbeg.












* 1450 – Led by Skanderbeg, the Albanians rout Ottoman forces under Sultan Murad II. 



* 1480’s – Albania again falls to the Turks.  Many Albanians flee. Many of those remaining are forced to convert to Islam. 
  

Ali Pasha, in all his glory

* 1600’s – Muslim Albanians find status, careers, and fancy uniforms in the Ottoman government and military.



* 1822 – Ali Pashë Tepelena is assassinated by Ottoman agents for promoting an autonomous Albanian state.



* 1861 - First Albanian language school in modern times opens in Shkodër. 



* 1877/8 - Ottman Empire defeated in the Russo-Turkish War.  This weakens their influence in the Balkans, but not so much in Albania.
Russo-Turkish war battle (supposedly)


* 1878 – At the Congress of Berlin, the great powers divide Albanian lands among several states. The League of Prizren forms to organize resistance. 
 
* 1881 – Ottoman forces crush Albanian resistance fighters.

* 1897 - Ottoman authorities ban Albanian language books.

* 1908 – Albanian intellectuals choose the Latin alphabet as the standard script, rejecting Arabic and Cyrillic.    

*  1912 – Albanians rise against the Ottomans and seize Skopje.  The First Balkan War begins.  Half of Albania’s claimed territory is allotted to Serbia and Greece.    



 * 1913 – First Balkan War ends.  Second Balkan War begins.  Second Balkan War ends. Albania is recognized as an independent state ruled by a constitutional monarchy (read: German puppet government).  
Puppet Prince William


* 1914 – The new Albanian state collapses with the outbreak of World War I.  Puppet Prince William flees, apparently after a naive but earnest attempt at ruling justly. 


* 1918 – WWI ends with the Italians occupying most of Albania.  Serbia, Greece, and France control the rest.   

* 1919 (a busy year) – Serbia attacks.  Albania enters a state of guerrilla warfare. European powers redraw Albanian’s boundaries again, this time dividing the territory among Greece, Italy, and Yugoslavia.  Albanians resist and force out the Italians. Albania is admitted to the League of Nations as a sovereign state. 
Is Zog also an aspiring band leader?
* 1921 – Royal Yugoslav Army invades, but League of Nations forces a withdrawal. 

* 1923 – Albania’s Sunni Muslims break remaining ties with disbanding Ottomans.

* 1928 – Ahmet Zogu is declared King Zog I, Skanderbeg III, King of Albania.  

* 1939 – Italians invade.  King Zog and company flee.

* 1943 – Italians flee.  Germans invade.  

* 1944 – Germans flee. Supplied with Bristish weapons, Communist partisans take control. Under Enver Hoxha, Albania enters a self-inflicted period of totalitarianism. 

* 1960 – Albania sides with China in the Sino-Soviet split.
meeting of the Comrades

* 1966 - Hoxha initiates the Cultural and Ideological Revolution.

* 1967 - Violent campaign against religious activity.  Over 2000 buildings were closed and converted and thousands of religious officials were jailed.  Albania declared the world's first athiest state.
Berisha is the current Prime Minister. 







* 1989 -  Communist rule in Eastern Europe collapses.

* 1990 - Public protests erupt. Modest reforms instituted. Albanians granted the right to travel.  Thousands flee by land. Thousands seize ships at port and sail illegally to Italy.

* 1992 – Democratic Party wins elections. Sali Berisha becomes first elected president. 


Photo by Time Magazine, 1997




* 1993 – A new wave of political repression is instigated by the ruling party.  Pope John Paul II makes a historic visit. (The last pope to travel to Albania died en route in 1464.) 

 * 1997 (another busy year) – Crown Prince Leka, son of late King Zog, returns from exile in bid to take throne. Referendum on restoration of the monarchy fails. He is accused of trying to stir up an armed insurrection and flees back into exile. A massive pyramid investment scheme collapses, costing thousands of Albanians their savings and triggering fierce anti-government protests.  Up to a million weapons are looted from army stores as angry mobs take to the streets. 
Photo by Carol Guzy


* 1998 – Escalating unrest in Kosovo sends refugees across border into Albania. 


Prince Leka is very tall.
Kosovar refugees (I think)
* 1999 – NATO strikes Yugoslav military targets. Serbs attack ethnic-Albanian Kosovars. Tens of thousands of refugees pour into Albania. 




*  2001 – UN claims Albanians are being poisoned by fatal toxins in their environment, urges international help. The government is strongly criticized for its lax policy toward human trafficking. 
  

* 2002 - Albanian royals return from exile.   

 
* 2003 – Albania and EU begin first step in a long road to possible EU membership. 


     * 2004 – Twenty+ Albanians die in a failed attempt to enter Italy in inflatable boats.





 *2005 – Sali Berisha reelected.   


I could not resist using this picture to illustrate Bush's visit.  Also, is that the same type of hat the guy is wearing in the first picture on this post?  Maybe it is an Albanian tradition.
·    * 2006 – Speedboats banned in effort to curb human and drug smuggling in the Adriatic. 


* 2007 – President George W. Bush becomes the first US leader to visit Albania.  


* 2009 - Albania joins NATO.


* 2010 – EU leaders reject Albania's membership candidacy, but ease visa requirements. 
Kosovo becomes a sovereign state (sort of).   


* 2011 - Deadly clashes leave four anti-government protesters dead in demonstration about corruption and alleged election vote rigging.   



I would like to end on a more positive note, but unfortunately I cannot invent history.  Hopefully by the time I leave I'll be able to update this post with some positive historical events.